Saturday, March 31, 2018

Don't Ruin It! (Indonesia Spring Break Part II)

Indonesia is full of so much natural and historical beauty, it's mind-blowing.  On the south side of Central Java alone, within 20 kilometers of the city center of Yogyakarta lies two impressive temple complexes, both dating back to the 9th Century.  

The first is Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site consists of one large structure, nine "layers" tall; constructed like a wedding cake, the first six are square and the top three are circular, with large central stupa in the center. Surrounding main peak, set on the circular layers, are 72 smaller bell-shaped stupas. The resulting effect is right out of an Indiana Jones movie.

Sunrise over Borobudur Temple.

Happy because no one was in the background or asking to take a photo with me.
If you have ever want to know what its like to be Hollywood famous,
spend a morning wandering around the temples. It's not glamorous.

Another short drive to the east is Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex consisting of a collection of temples in honor of Hindu Gods Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva. The central Shiva temple towers at 47 meters tall. At one point abandoned and overtaken by the jungle (as well as looted, including locals who took statues for decoration in their gardens), the  complex has been slowly renovated since the mid 1950's.  Other than earthquake damage in 2006, this ornate UNESCO World Heritage Site has, thankfully, been given new life.

Prambanan is the tops! And these are the tops of Prambanan.

While most travellers come to Yogyakarta as a jumping off point to visit Borobudur and Prambanan, "Jogya" has a few impressive and unique hidden architectural relics of its own!  

The Taman Sari Water Castle, built in the last half of the 1700's, was a place for the Sultan of the region to relax, meditate, and enjoy the company of his concubines. Consisting of what can only be described as walled, water-filled courtyards, the complex has a peaceful aura to it, as long as you watch where you step; there are no railings here!

Water Castle of Yogyakarta, where the Sultan got his swim on in the 1700's.

A short walk from the private pools of the sultans, down some narrow and unmarked alleyways, lies the mysterious and easy-to-miss "underground mosque."  Known as Sumur Gumuling, this donut-shaped building is only one nondescript story above ground, but three below. The open center contains a platform with three staircases leading, like spokes, to the lowest floor, and one rising to the first.  Underneath this platformed staircase is a small pool used for various cleansing rituals. The outside is a gently sloped, spiralling ringed hallway with periodic windows looking into the central staircased area.


Worth the labyrinth:
The "underground mosque" looks like the movie set for every secret-society initiation scene.

Without a doubt, Yogyakarta and its surrounding area are a historian and architecture lover's Disneyland. It's an easy place to get lost in both time and space.

Friday, March 30, 2018

In Search of Dragons (Indonesia Spring Break Part I)

The island of Komodo has forever been one of those fictitious-sounding place names that are so often thrown around in conversation - like Timbuktu or Sheboygan - that  people don't know if they're actually real or not.  This one takes on an additional mystical feel, as it's associated with the large lizards that share its name.  Regardless, Komodo was one of those imagined places I never dreamed of being able to visit, and I made it my mission to get there when I realized I could!

Located west of the island of Flores in the Indonesian archipelago, Komodo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, devoted to the conservation of the unique and enormous monitor lizards (Varanus komodoensis) that inhabit it.  Easily growing to lengths of more than 2 meters, these giants can reach speeds of up to 20 km/hr for short distances and are know to hunt small deers that also reside on the island.  For these reasons a guide and permits are required to visit the island.

The only way to get there is by boat and the best jumping off point (and nearest airport) is in the town Labuan Bajo, on the northwestern edge of Flores. Many tour operators run day-trips out of offices along the main road so booking in advance isn't a necessity, especially on a flexible schedule.

On the way to and from the island, stops at Padar Island - with it's unique topography and beaches of three colors - and snorkelling hotspots are beautiful detours on the long over-sea journey.

Pulau Padar with views of the pink beach, black beach,
white beach...and my developing sunburn.
It's alive. I know this because it lurched at the guide shortly after taking this photo.
Thankfully my phone was okay.
As our group was preparing to depart from the beach, this beast demonstrated
the dragons' impressive land speed by chasing after a small group of deer grazing
on the grass near the shore. In situations like this, its not uncommon to size up
your fellow travel companions to ensure you're not the slowest one...