Between Rivers and Islands

I will be back to Vietnam. A five day visit to the bustling city of Hanoi and the majestic Ha Long Bay was more than enough incentive to find my way back here one day and explore more of this fascinating (and delicious) country.

I was told before coming here than Hanoi doesn't have a lot to offer tourists. I disagree. From the incredible food at every turn to the pedestrian friendly (well, accessible) sidewalks and parks, the abundant coffee shops to the winding alleys in the French and Old Quarters, Hanoi is a wandering traveler's dream city.

Meaning "between rivers"(Hà Nội) in Vietnamese, the city of situated near a confluence of rivers, giving the city of compact feel. Crossing the street feels a bit like being a rock slowing rolling from one shore to the other, while currents of motorcycles and scooters fluidly part ways around you. Even eating lunch on the sidewalk on small plastic stools, less than a foot off the ground, gives people-watching a new and hurried vantage point.

Famed foody, Anthony Bourdain, on one of his many visits to Vietnam mused, "All of the things I need for happiness: Low plastic stool, check. Tiny little plastic table, check. Something delicious in a bowl, check."  While it is unavoidable to come across such eateries - they are every couple of steps - it is hard to know what you are eating and how to order correctly.  Being new to the city, a guided food tour was welcomed and rewarding! Starting with a tame bowl of fish noodle soup, progressing to squid dishes (and some more exotic fare*), and ending with fruit and yogurt dessert and coffee, it was one of the more delicious three hour walks one can have!

My favorite of the food tour: rice noodles, tofu, mint leaves, cucumber, and
a fermented shrimp paste sauce.

*For the more adventurous: dog (left) and half-boiled duck eggs (right)
Not pictured: a tray of wriggling worms to make worm-patties.

Despite not being as big of a tourist draw as some other Vietnamese cities, Hanoi does have it's share of sites, in addition to a number of well-manicured parks, leafy avenues, and museums, this list includes the mausoleum where Ho Chi Minh himself is embalmed for all to see.

The Red Bridge located on the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ho Chi Minh's final resting place.

After a couple of days eating, walking, and braving the rainy chill, we headed east to the coast for a three day tour of the mythical Ha Long Bay. Ancient legend says that a dragon came to help the early Vietnamese fight off Chinese invaders by placing islands in the way, preventing them from storming the port and giving shield and hiding places for the warriors to attack from. The dragon then decided to stay because of the beauty of the area; Ha Long derives from the words for "descending dragon" in old Vietnamese.

From the roof top deck of the Indochina Sails cruise boat.

Despite the quite bays and narrow channels, Ha Long Bay is a aqua-highway.

While most of the time in the bay was spent relaxing on the "sun" deck marvelling at the many steeply sloping islands seemingly tossed about at random, there were a few opportunities to get out and hike or kayak.  One such stop was Sung Sôt Cave, found within Bo Hòn Island.  Paved and well-lit - like a disco - this wasn't so much "caving" as it was akin to mall walking, however, the space was impressive and some of the formations and geology was interesting. Geologists and anthropologists believe that many of the island in the bay house caves within them and that they were, at one point, connected, allowing early residents of the area to move between them.

Sung Sôt Cave inside Bo Hòn Island.

Boardwalk around Bo Hòn Island

Quick dip:
Yes, it's December. Yes, it's cold. But you might only be in Ha Long Bay once!

Another island that most all cruise boats stop at is named after a Soviet cosmonaut, Ghermann Titov, who visited the island and said it was nice. Obviously, if your foreign comrade gives you a compliment, you do the only respectable thing and rename the island after him - and Ti Top Island was (re)born.  Arguably, the view is spectacular and offers one the best panoramic vantage-points of the bay, if you can crop out the other couple hundred tourists trudging along with you and ignore the parking lot of cruise boats floating below.

Welcome to Ti Top Island!
(I'm going to start complimenting more things when I travel.)

Some Ha Long Bay photos taken by P. Shafe and L. Emerson.

Myanmarvelous

Trapped in time.

Raw.

Untouched.

Awakening.

Biblical.

Before traveling to Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) for my school's version of "week without walls" with a handful of eager 9th graders, these were some of the ways colleagues and friends who had traveled to this enchanted land had described it.  And they weren't wrong; Myanmar is a country in transition, one that has been a secret land, preserved in a way that can only happen in this day and age if outsiders stay out and local culture stays insulated.

INLE LAKE
Our first stop was to the Inle Lake area, located in the Shan State and made up of the Kayan (Karen) and Shan peoples. (The Bamar ethnicity, from which the British mistakenly decided to call the entire country - "Burma" - compose 60-70% of the nation, however, are not found in this region, though the Burmese language is.)

Morning street scene in Nyaung Shwe, the largest town around Inle Lake.

Daily life at the sprawling Mingalar Market in Nyaung Shwe.
Most people in Myanmar still purchase their food on a daily basis because
of the convenience of eating and having fresh food.

Farmers harvesting various water plants from Inle Lake.
The lake is quite shallow throughout, maxing out at around 3m at its deepest.

Traditional Inle Lake fisherman. The bubbles are spotted, the fisherman places
the cone-shaped net into the water, then shoves a stick down the middle,
frightening the fish into the sides of the net, which are in actuality a double-
layer, thus trapping it long enough to pull the net up.

Short of swimming, traveling by boat is the only way to visit  the "floating"
villages on the lake.

A "field" of tomato plants being cultivated on the lake.

The Kayan people (also spelled Karen) are sometimes referred to as the
"long-neck" tribe by foreigners or the Paduang Tribe, meaning "copper neck,"
by locals; both are derogatory and not appreciated.

We got to attempt the art of "leg-rowing" with some locals. This is an activity
practiced in teams for competitions during certain festivals. It is not easy.
This video shows how many people fit on a boat and intensity of the event.

BAGAN
Next stop was the ancient capital of Bagan, which today is a roughly 16 square kilometer area dotted with over 2,200 pagodas and temples across the vast plains. Local development regulations do not allow new structures to be over two stories in order to maintain an unadulterated skyline.

Bagan at sunset.

Obviously seeing such a vast area in a limited amount of time is not realistic. Therefore, to maximize our visiting potential we toured by bike in the morning and horse-cart in the late afternoon - the sun and heat are too intense to do much of anything in the mid-day.

Our bike gang.

No, the temple is not slanted; it's just not easy taking a planar photograph
while being lead around by a horse.

On our final night we boarded a simple river boat to take in the sunset along the Ayeyarwady River (old name Irrawaddy River).  In order to maintain a peaceful atmosphere, about ten minutes before sunset all motors on the river must be shut off, creating a quiet world with temple peaks on the horizon and of slowly drifting boats on the water.

YANGON
Last stop of the trip was the capital city (not really, but it should be) of Yangon, formally known as Rangoon. (The Brit's invented a lot spellings based on their interpretations of what they believed things were called in the Burmese language, spoken by the Bamar peoples. Those are mostly changed back now, except outside the country where many cartographers insist on writing both, perpetuating the old, incorrect names.)

Our primary purpose in Yangon was the "service" aspect of the trip, for us focusing on the donation of materials and the construction of a new roof at a local monastic school. Once we got there, however, the scaffolding for the ceiling had been installed incorrectly and needed to be redone, not allowing our work. Fortunately, a large classroom in one of the order buildings needed a good cleaning and painting and our kids were more than eager to put in two days work. We didn't take a "before" picture, but the results were impressive and the kids were proud of their work and relationships they had formed with the curious novice monks who eventually came to check out this strange mix of foreigners laboring away in their compound.

Curious novice monk watching our group work from his second-floor dormitory.
In Myanmar, it is strongly encouraged and widely practiced that families send
their boys to monastic schools for at least a year. For some, they stay longer as
this is the best schooling they may have access to. Still other commit for life
and before full-fledged Buddhist monks.

Though Yangon is not without it's charms - it is a bustling city with a lot of character in the architecture of the old colonial buildings downtown - there is little to see for a visiting tourist. The major exception is the Shwedagon Pagoda, a giant golden structure dating back to either 600BC or 500-900AD, depending on who you ask. Incredible amounts of people visit the pagoda each day, many Buddhists making a pilgrimage here from the countryside. Fortunately, because of a Buddhist belief regarding birth day of the week and time of the day, people are sorted out to different areas of the complex to pray, thus making the visit slightly more comfortable for the ochlophobic.

Typical Yangon traffic as one approaches the massive Shwedagon Pagoda.

Buddhist visitors burning incense and lighting candles.

The trip through Myanmar was like traveling back in time, to a simple place where I didn't mind shutting off my phone and disconnecting from the world for a week. I found a world with warm, smiling people, delicious and fresh foods, with a rich and complex history. It was also an interesting time to visit the country as they are primed for an important and historic democratic election in the coming weeks, something that hasn't happened in many years due to the military party not liking the results the previous go-around. This is definitely a country with a potential for change; I'm not sure if I will get the opportunity to visit again, however, I venture that should I return several years from now, I may return to a very different place than the one I saw during these brief days in October.

Spectacle: There were multiple cameras trained on our little group when we
were taking this shot at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon.
This was an amazing group of students and I am grateful to have had the
opportunity to travel with such easy-going, eager, and fun kids.

Five Days in Bangkok

Bangkok is a truly world city. It has culture and art, history and religion, is a foodie paradise, and has things to do at all times of the day or night. Knowing I would likely visit this amazing city a few times in the future, I wanted to make sure I had all the major check-boxes of touristy do's ticked off to avoid being "that guy" who has to see some temple when everyone else wants to find the best pad thai in some hidden alley in Chinatown.  Can one do Bangkok in five days? Challenge accepted:

DAY 1: Full disclosure, the first day was a bit of a bust as I found out one needs pants to go templing. Apparently Buddha doesn't like bare legs and shoulder, though it should be noted one must remove all footwear before entering Buddha's houses so evidently naked feet are okay.  So, I went to the mall.

Near the mall, however, is the home of Jim Thompson; he of the eponymous silk clothier. Thompson was an ex-CIA operative who settled in Thailand post-WWII and helped revive the Thai silk industry, including being instrumental in outfitting the film cast of "The King & I" and bringing the material to fashion houses in New York and London. He vanished without a trace while on vacation in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in the late 1960's and his home was made into a museum in tribute to all he did for Thai culture on the world stage.

I took the scenic route back to the hotel later in the day via the commuter boats in the canals, which is probably the fastest way to get anywhere in Bangkok, provided your point A and B are near a dock. The canals are a lot like Venice, except gross. But, efficient is efficient!

Day 2: Temple Day! If Buddha was going to make me wear pants in the Bangkok heat, then I was going to see all the temples in one day. Slight exaggeration. There are a lot of temples. I went to a few of the most famous ones, fortunately all near my tourist-centric hotel.

First up was Wat Pho, famous for the Reclining Buddha. Apparently there are four poses Buddha can be found in. The reclining pose is meant to show him near the end of his life. This particular Buddha is enormous at about 50 meters in length and can't really be seen all once because of the way it is enclosed by the temple itself.

Not small.

The feet of the Buddha are inlaid with Mother-of-pearl. Unfortunately, these were
under restoration so this is as close to the feet as one could be.

Other than the famous Reclining Buddha the rest of Wat Pho is impressive in its own right. Two of my favorite parts were the Royal Chedi (pagodas), which were adorned with all kinds of detailed decorations in every color imaginable, and the etchings of ancient Thai massage along the walls of another shelter.  Everywhere you looked in Wat Pho there was something new to see; even it it meant stepping just a little closer.

I spy, with my little eye...

A early blueprint for the game Operation.

Some Buddhas wear robes, others don't. It's a personal choice.

I'm not sure if the "temple cats" like living here or if they just can't figure their way out.

Next door to Wat Pho is the Royal Palace grounds which includes Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha, which is in actuality made of a type of jade and gets dressed in different robes depending on the time of year.  This "poser" Buddha is much smaller than its reclining neighbor at little over half a meter in height, though it is perched very high up on an impressively adorned throne.

No photos allowed within the temple, but through the window with a zoom lens is fine.

The rest of the Royal Palace grounds are worth strolling through as there are multiple pagodas, murals, and giant, colorful five-meter tall Buddhist/Hindu ogre figures guarding the main entrances called "yakshas." The Grand Palace Hall dates back to the 1880's and has a distinctive European-style to it...but with elephant statues instead of say, a lion or stag, so you don't forget you're in Southeast Asia, lest the heat wane.

Smaller yakshas doing the dirty work holding up a golden pagoda.

Nosey neighbor making sure no one takes photos inside.

I bet those tusks could be used as weapons if the gun fails.

Detail of the the roof of the Dusit Hall, now used for state funerals.

Down the road a little ways away from the tourist bustle is the smaller but just as grand Wat Suthat. Apparently this Wat is one of Thailand's most important, though, because of it's location and lack of über-famous Buddha, it is not crowded and costs relatively nothing to visit. Pants still obligatory, however.

One of Thailand's largest Buddha's. Too bad it's "only" bronze...

The door and wall decorations provided details for days.
Not sure what nectar this crazy butterfly was dipping into but I liked him!

Happy little temple statue.

Leave no statue unturned: details everywhere.

I call this "Flower Offering on Ceramic Pottery"

Day 3: I was encouraged by a colleague to search out the Royal Barges Museum.  Finding it on a map is easy; the location is not a secret. Locating it on foot requires some patience and bit of blind faith in the obscure signage taking you down narrow corridors behind corrugated tin roof homes and alongside stagnant canals.  Once there, I was glad I made the effort!

Just a little dodgy. (Click to enlarge)

The museum is essentially the covered docks where the ceremonial boats used during coronation ceremonies are housed. Since Thai royalty are not crowned every day, these boats don't touch the water much and it has been an entire generation of Bangkok residents who have never seen one of these occasions.  Incidentally, Thailand is the only country in the world that still holds a royal ceremonial parade on the water.

Your [water] chariot awaits, your Highness.

Some of bow heads were seriously blinged out.

Across the main canal is the Siriraj Hospital, one of the city's best. Within its massive complex is housed a small museum tucked up on the second floor of one nondescript building called the Forensic Medicine & Parasitology Museum. As a science teacher I thought this might be with the visit. Let's just say the parasitology section was the less gross of the two...and it contained a preserved scrotum the size of a large pumpkin from a poor gentleman who suffered a form of parasite-borne elephantitis.

You know what? I'm not even tempted. Thanks, though.

Day 4: My last full day in Bangkok found me visiting Chinatown twice. First was during the day for lunch, as it was a short walk south from my hotel. Bustling with energy and purpose it was easy to people watch and become invisible in this vibrant neighborhood. The food stalls were just as amazing as the photo opportunities, which made me vow to come back in the evening when the flower market comes to life, taking advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures.

The clipped flowers in the bags will become woven into decorative wreaths.

I have no idea where this quantity of flowers come from...

...or where is goes, but this is a nightly event here.

I also wandered a bit with only a map, my camera, a slight agenda of points to hit, and no expectations. First up was a Portuguese church - Igreja Santa Cruz - built on land given to the Portuguese in the early 1800's as a thank you for helping in some war. It is striking to see the solitary typical Catholic dome and cross as part of a skyline made mostly out of pyramidal pagodas. The neighborhood is now home to many Chinese descendants who make various baked goods combining the pastries of the two cultures...with mixed results.

Bows of water-taxis - kind of like the pine tree air fresheners, Yellow Cabs?

Bangkok is putting in some effort into making the formerly commercial and utilitarian river front more pedestrian friendly with nice riverwalk docks and paths. While not entirely contiguous, there are many long stretches where one can stroll along the edge of the busy waterway, watching the barges, tour boats, and water taxi make their way to and fro. The docks turned out to be great places to stop and find more food stalls, handicrafts, and hydrate with fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice.

Somehow, spiral-cut pineapple tastes better.

According to a lot of tourist literature, Khao San street and the surrounding area is of note. In my experience abroad, many large cities have a "central" region where one can find cheap knock-offs or Prada bags and Rolex watches straight off a vendor's cart. Other cheap services are likely not far off. This generally unregulated, greasy, and disreputable area of a city is usually not advertised to visitors. Bangkok has evidently decided that this is where the tourist should want to come...and stay. Against logic, this is the backpacker haven of Thailand. I was not in to it, took a brief turn down the street, declining numerous offers of sales of fake Beats headphones and weed found more interesting alleys to walk down.

Soi Ban Baat for one. This niche neighborhood is alive with the tinny sounds of metal being struck with hammers. If you end up in the vicinity, just follow your ears to artisans tucked down an unassuming side road making monk bowls. These vessels were originally used primarily by monks in the temples to collect offerings. They still are, however, because of their charming appearance, there is a significant tourist market for them nowadays. The trick is to buy from the source to guarantee authenticity; real monk bowls, made from eight separate pieces of metal, "sing" when struck, much like a tuning fork.

Nearing the end of the process, these bowls will be heated over a torch again,
and then painted or glazed for added effect.

Day 5: I saved the museum a stone's throw from my hotel for the last day. The Siam Museum is essentially a history museum of the entire region, housed in an old 19th century mansion-like building that used to be the Chamber of Commerce. Beginning as far back as is anthropologically allowed, the museum takes the visitor through time to the present day, introducing them to the diverse peoples who have at one point or another inhabited the region and the impacts they left behind.

Others with my ignorance of this part of the world might have visited the Siam Museum first to gain some perspective before trotting off temples and museums. I preferred to gather some questions and hope they get answered. Experiential learning; I guess that's the teacher in me!  Either way, this was a really well-presented exhibit experience and I would definitely recommend it to those passing through Thailand, especially on a day with inclimate or oppressively hot weather.

I think this room was about the introduction of mass media to Thailand.
Maybe. I don't read Thai, though.

M.C. Escher's inspiration?

I ended the afternoon before heading to the airport at a quaint little coffee shop on the water, reflecting on the eventful week behind me. Though I didn't hit every single site, it gives me motivation to return, but with less pressure to be a tourist. Next time I come I can just "be." Kòrp kun, Bangkok!  Until we meet again...

Case in point: Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) in the background was covered in
scaffolding, prompting me to "save it" for a future visit.