Five Days in Bangkok

Bangkok is a truly world city. It has culture and art, history and religion, is a foodie paradise, and has things to do at all times of the day or night. Knowing I would likely visit this amazing city a few times in the future, I wanted to make sure I had all the major check-boxes of touristy do's ticked off to avoid being "that guy" who has to see some temple when everyone else wants to find the best pad thai in some hidden alley in Chinatown.  Can one do Bangkok in five days? Challenge accepted:

DAY 1: Full disclosure, the first day was a bit of a bust as I found out one needs pants to go templing. Apparently Buddha doesn't like bare legs and shoulder, though it should be noted one must remove all footwear before entering Buddha's houses so evidently naked feet are okay.  So, I went to the mall.

Near the mall, however, is the home of Jim Thompson; he of the eponymous silk clothier. Thompson was an ex-CIA operative who settled in Thailand post-WWII and helped revive the Thai silk industry, including being instrumental in outfitting the film cast of "The King & I" and bringing the material to fashion houses in New York and London. He vanished without a trace while on vacation in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in the late 1960's and his home was made into a museum in tribute to all he did for Thai culture on the world stage.

I took the scenic route back to the hotel later in the day via the commuter boats in the canals, which is probably the fastest way to get anywhere in Bangkok, provided your point A and B are near a dock. The canals are a lot like Venice, except gross. But, efficient is efficient!

Day 2: Temple Day! If Buddha was going to make me wear pants in the Bangkok heat, then I was going to see all the temples in one day. Slight exaggeration. There are a lot of temples. I went to a few of the most famous ones, fortunately all near my tourist-centric hotel.

First up was Wat Pho, famous for the Reclining Buddha. Apparently there are four poses Buddha can be found in. The reclining pose is meant to show him near the end of his life. This particular Buddha is enormous at about 50 meters in length and can't really be seen all once because of the way it is enclosed by the temple itself.

Not small.

The feet of the Buddha are inlaid with Mother-of-pearl. Unfortunately, these were
under restoration so this is as close to the feet as one could be.

Other than the famous Reclining Buddha the rest of Wat Pho is impressive in its own right. Two of my favorite parts were the Royal Chedi (pagodas), which were adorned with all kinds of detailed decorations in every color imaginable, and the etchings of ancient Thai massage along the walls of another shelter.  Everywhere you looked in Wat Pho there was something new to see; even it it meant stepping just a little closer.

I spy, with my little eye...

A early blueprint for the game Operation.

Some Buddhas wear robes, others don't. It's a personal choice.

I'm not sure if the "temple cats" like living here or if they just can't figure their way out.

Next door to Wat Pho is the Royal Palace grounds which includes Wat Phra Kaew, home of the Emerald Buddha, which is in actuality made of a type of jade and gets dressed in different robes depending on the time of year.  This "poser" Buddha is much smaller than its reclining neighbor at little over half a meter in height, though it is perched very high up on an impressively adorned throne.

No photos allowed within the temple, but through the window with a zoom lens is fine.

The rest of the Royal Palace grounds are worth strolling through as there are multiple pagodas, murals, and giant, colorful five-meter tall Buddhist/Hindu ogre figures guarding the main entrances called "yakshas." The Grand Palace Hall dates back to the 1880's and has a distinctive European-style to it...but with elephant statues instead of say, a lion or stag, so you don't forget you're in Southeast Asia, lest the heat wane.

Smaller yakshas doing the dirty work holding up a golden pagoda.

Nosey neighbor making sure no one takes photos inside.

I bet those tusks could be used as weapons if the gun fails.

Detail of the the roof of the Dusit Hall, now used for state funerals.

Down the road a little ways away from the tourist bustle is the smaller but just as grand Wat Suthat. Apparently this Wat is one of Thailand's most important, though, because of it's location and lack of über-famous Buddha, it is not crowded and costs relatively nothing to visit. Pants still obligatory, however.

One of Thailand's largest Buddha's. Too bad it's "only" bronze...

The door and wall decorations provided details for days.
Not sure what nectar this crazy butterfly was dipping into but I liked him!

Happy little temple statue.

Leave no statue unturned: details everywhere.

I call this "Flower Offering on Ceramic Pottery"

Day 3: I was encouraged by a colleague to search out the Royal Barges Museum.  Finding it on a map is easy; the location is not a secret. Locating it on foot requires some patience and bit of blind faith in the obscure signage taking you down narrow corridors behind corrugated tin roof homes and alongside stagnant canals.  Once there, I was glad I made the effort!

Just a little dodgy. (Click to enlarge)

The museum is essentially the covered docks where the ceremonial boats used during coronation ceremonies are housed. Since Thai royalty are not crowned every day, these boats don't touch the water much and it has been an entire generation of Bangkok residents who have never seen one of these occasions.  Incidentally, Thailand is the only country in the world that still holds a royal ceremonial parade on the water.

Your [water] chariot awaits, your Highness.

Some of bow heads were seriously blinged out.

Across the main canal is the Siriraj Hospital, one of the city's best. Within its massive complex is housed a small museum tucked up on the second floor of one nondescript building called the Forensic Medicine & Parasitology Museum. As a science teacher I thought this might be with the visit. Let's just say the parasitology section was the less gross of the two...and it contained a preserved scrotum the size of a large pumpkin from a poor gentleman who suffered a form of parasite-borne elephantitis.

You know what? I'm not even tempted. Thanks, though.

Day 4: My last full day in Bangkok found me visiting Chinatown twice. First was during the day for lunch, as it was a short walk south from my hotel. Bustling with energy and purpose it was easy to people watch and become invisible in this vibrant neighborhood. The food stalls were just as amazing as the photo opportunities, which made me vow to come back in the evening when the flower market comes to life, taking advantage of the slightly cooler temperatures.

The clipped flowers in the bags will become woven into decorative wreaths.

I have no idea where this quantity of flowers come from...

...or where is goes, but this is a nightly event here.

I also wandered a bit with only a map, my camera, a slight agenda of points to hit, and no expectations. First up was a Portuguese church - Igreja Santa Cruz - built on land given to the Portuguese in the early 1800's as a thank you for helping in some war. It is striking to see the solitary typical Catholic dome and cross as part of a skyline made mostly out of pyramidal pagodas. The neighborhood is now home to many Chinese descendants who make various baked goods combining the pastries of the two cultures...with mixed results.

Bows of water-taxis - kind of like the pine tree air fresheners, Yellow Cabs?

Bangkok is putting in some effort into making the formerly commercial and utilitarian river front more pedestrian friendly with nice riverwalk docks and paths. While not entirely contiguous, there are many long stretches where one can stroll along the edge of the busy waterway, watching the barges, tour boats, and water taxi make their way to and fro. The docks turned out to be great places to stop and find more food stalls, handicrafts, and hydrate with fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice.

Somehow, spiral-cut pineapple tastes better.

According to a lot of tourist literature, Khao San street and the surrounding area is of note. In my experience abroad, many large cities have a "central" region where one can find cheap knock-offs or Prada bags and Rolex watches straight off a vendor's cart. Other cheap services are likely not far off. This generally unregulated, greasy, and disreputable area of a city is usually not advertised to visitors. Bangkok has evidently decided that this is where the tourist should want to come...and stay. Against logic, this is the backpacker haven of Thailand. I was not in to it, took a brief turn down the street, declining numerous offers of sales of fake Beats headphones and weed found more interesting alleys to walk down.

Soi Ban Baat for one. This niche neighborhood is alive with the tinny sounds of metal being struck with hammers. If you end up in the vicinity, just follow your ears to artisans tucked down an unassuming side road making monk bowls. These vessels were originally used primarily by monks in the temples to collect offerings. They still are, however, because of their charming appearance, there is a significant tourist market for them nowadays. The trick is to buy from the source to guarantee authenticity; real monk bowls, made from eight separate pieces of metal, "sing" when struck, much like a tuning fork.

Nearing the end of the process, these bowls will be heated over a torch again,
and then painted or glazed for added effect.

Day 5: I saved the museum a stone's throw from my hotel for the last day. The Siam Museum is essentially a history museum of the entire region, housed in an old 19th century mansion-like building that used to be the Chamber of Commerce. Beginning as far back as is anthropologically allowed, the museum takes the visitor through time to the present day, introducing them to the diverse peoples who have at one point or another inhabited the region and the impacts they left behind.

Others with my ignorance of this part of the world might have visited the Siam Museum first to gain some perspective before trotting off temples and museums. I preferred to gather some questions and hope they get answered. Experiential learning; I guess that's the teacher in me!  Either way, this was a really well-presented exhibit experience and I would definitely recommend it to those passing through Thailand, especially on a day with inclimate or oppressively hot weather.

I think this room was about the introduction of mass media to Thailand.
Maybe. I don't read Thai, though.

M.C. Escher's inspiration?

I ended the afternoon before heading to the airport at a quaint little coffee shop on the water, reflecting on the eventful week behind me. Though I didn't hit every single site, it gives me motivation to return, but with less pressure to be a tourist. Next time I come I can just "be." Kòrp kun, Bangkok!  Until we meet again...

Case in point: Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) in the background was covered in
scaffolding, prompting me to "save it" for a future visit.