The Heart of Borneo

On the island of Borneo (Kalimantan), in the northeastern corner of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, not far from the border with Brunei, lives the an area of preserved land that can only be described as primeval. Gunung Mulu National Park, a rare UNESCO World Heritage Site that qualifies under all four criteria, is an covering more than 200 square miles, prized for its biodiversity, vast limestone caves and unique "pinnacles" on the summit of Mount Mulu.

There isn't much to speak of outside the National Park, outside of an airport consisting of a modest building with an airstrip hosting just four flights a day and a scattered settlement of homes of predominantly Penan indigenous community. That doesn't mean there isn't much to see, however! After trekking rainforests in Panama, Brazil, and peninsular Malaysia, I was still blown away at the beauty of this area.

While there are options in the park for solo hikes, the best option is to sign up for daily guided adventures with the knowledgeable local park guides. Whether exploring a cave or looking for wildlife just off the trail, the extra eyes, ears, and expertise is worth the nominal extra price.

Land snails (Bertia brookei) are a common sight after the (almost) daily rains

The bizarre and stunning green lantern bug (Pyrops cultellatus), one of many diverse members
of this Genus, are named for the elongated head, resembling a lantern being carried.

A Malaysian Green Pit Viper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus)
photographed with a zoom lens.

Many visitors come to explore the many and vast cave systems underneath the park. Wind Cave and Clearwater Caves are the record breakers, offering more adventurous and experienced cavers the opportunity to probe deeper underground, sometimes into new and unchartered caverns. Conversely, the easily accessible Deer Cave and Lang Cave are known as prime locations to watch the nightly bat exodus; a hypnotizing, acrobatic spectacle not unlike massive schools of fish spiralling through the sea.

Exploring Clearwater Cave, believed to be the largest interconnected cave systems in the world,
by volume and is currently ranked the 9th longest cave, with new areas being explored.

Openings like this one in Clearwater Cave, allow for life-giving light and water to enter the
massive space, increasing biodiversity within the subterranean world.

Endemic to this region, the single-leafed "monophytes" growing from the stalactites at the
entrance, have carved out a unique niche for themselves, devoting all their energy
to producing just one large leaf due to growing on suchpoor nutrient-lacking surfaces.

From just the right angle, standing within Deer Cave, one can make out the
profile of Abe Lincoln at dusk, as the bats migrate out for their nightly feast.

Four days in Gunung Mulu was enough, but I could have stayed longer, soaking up more colors of green than my senses could properly process and slowly inhaling the ripe, fragrant jungle smells a little more. Even now, sorting through the many failed attempts at photography in dimly lit spaces, I am filled with pangs to return.  I already miss this magical place and hope it's not the last time I visit.